Does this really need a freaking sign? Picture is non related to the iPhone.

Is your 1st edition or 3G iPhone home button stuck?

Does it take multiple presses to get back to the home screen?

Does it sometimes not respond at all to the touch, even though the clicker mechanism seems to be intact and not making any grinding noises?

Is your phone no longer under warranty so you fear those sales reps er… Genius Bar technicians are going to try to gouge you on repair costs?

Is your phone not going to be serviceable because it’s been jailbroken?

Well, I’m not saying I have all the answers, but consider this before you take matters into your own hands and begin dissecting your iPhone looking for a way to replace the switch.

This is my three-step guide on trying to fix the problem:

1. Buy or borrow a blower that you would use for camera gear. Not one of those rinky dink ones- but something like this Giottos Rocket Blower- which should set you back about $13 or so. Even if this process doesn’t fix the problem, you should own one of these things if you have ANY other electronic equipment.
2. Depress the home button, and then guide the nozzle into the thin gap where the button and body meet.
3. Squeeze the hell out of the blower a bunch of times (it took me about 20-30 shots) and vary your position around the button if you feel inclined to.

The whole point of this exercise is to try and lodge free any dust & debris which may have accumulated in the home switch itself. While it seems unlikely, this fix worked for me. So in my super-large sample set of one person, I have achieved a 100% success rate!

Again, your mileage may vary- but if i’ve saved you a trip into the iPhone innards by having to disassemble it, only to realize that access to the motherboard where the button (and it’s popple) are limited at best- then you’re welcome.

Otherwise, if it didn’t work, i apologize. But at the very least you are now in possession of a useful cleaning tool, and you have a legitimate reason to try and kick my ass if were to ever meet in person.

Thanks for reading!

When shopping for some new loose AA rechargeable batteries I found myself bemused by the number of vendors that lie a little bit or flat out lie about what their cells can do in order to generate some more sales. Surprised? Not really. I guess in some way Captain Obvious should have been shouting in my ear ‘DUH!!!’… but then again I might just be a bit too idealistic.

Having had some experience with original equipment vendors, and being that it is indeed shopping season, I felt like spreading some tips for those out look for rechargeable cells and packs as well.

1) Most “Manufacturers” Actually Re-Badge Cells

In many cases, companies don’t make their own cells. The major companies like Duracell, Energizer, Sanyo (now part of Panasonic) do, but if you run into some no-name company like “Powersauce”, “Enercell”, “ButtJuice Batteries” or some other random, wacky name- chances are that you have a rebadged product. These are nothing more than OEM cells originally sold without labeling that get a special branding treatment.

2) Cell Capacities Are Misleading

Capacity is usually expressed in milli amp hours (mAH) and the higher the value, the more charge a cell can store. Don’t let this number be your absolute guide. Besides, nobody tests battery capacities except engineers anyway, and each individual cell capacity will vary somewhat so vendors can pretty much say whatever they want with very low risk of being caught.

3) The Word “Nano” Anywhere Implies Little White Lie

At the time of writing, none of the cell makers use anything that remotely resembles a ‘nanotechnology’ process for any of their cells. The key differentiator is the purity of the chemical compounds used in individual cells. It’s that simple- what cells do is store electrical energy in the form of an electrochemical state. If your chemicals are as pure and have as little impurities as possible, your product performs better. In a frighteningly simple and straightforward terms, that’s all that you need to know.

4) “Special Sauce Cell Chemistry” Implies “Special Sauce Bullshit”

The food industry does this too, by using special names to make their product sound better. Right now the craze in the hamburger world is the use of the flashy, extra-special, and utterly unenforceable tag of ‘Genuine Angus Beef’ in their meat patties. Similarly you will see silly names like ‘Lithium Ion Nanopolymer’ sometimes on those ‘too good to be true’ priced battery packs. Just stay away from them- plain and simple.

Conclusion

Use a little common sense when purchasing rechargeable batteries.

Here’s a mini reference listing of rechargeable cell chemistry types and what their optimized uses are for:

• Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) – Great for general purpose applications. The most commonly available general purpose cell out there. Not as great for high current drain motorized use (like battery powered chainsaws) but perfectly fine for lower current drain applications. Can be quick-charged relatively easily. Can be charged even if half-full and do not develop ‘memory’ effects if you don’t run them down all the way before charging. Fairly cheap and easily available. Somewhat vulnerable to overheating.
• Lithium Polymer (LiPO) – Great for general purpose applications. Also great for high-drain motorized applications too, BUT VERY susceptible to heat. This is one of it’s only real weaknesses. Excess heat causes cells to EXPLODE. Can be charged quickly, but requires expensive chargers to get the most out of your cells. Also very susceptible to cold temperature, as excess exposure to cold will affect it’s long-term capacity rating.
• Lead Acid Batteries – Great for motorized applications, fairly durable life, must be kept constantly charged to maximum in order to perform at their best. Chemically dangerous and must be disposed of properly. Vent fumes can kill you, or burn holes in your flesh on physical contact.
• Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) – Great for motorized applications. Must be run down till cells are nearly dead, and recharged to their maximum in order to retain their best performance. Usually can only be trickle charged over a period of hours. Quick chargers exist but can be expensive. An older design which is being phased out of the wayside where possible since the chemistry is fairly toxic. Best stored for long term use when completely dead.